Calibrating your 3D printer is essential if you want to achieve the best possible results. We guide you through the whole process.

The accuracy of a 3D printer is paramount to the success of your 3D prints. It determines how well it can lay down layers, especially the first layer. Several factors can affect a 3D printer's accuracy; calibration is one of them.

Calibration in 3D printing involves making slight adjustments to the machine to produce prints that match the desired specifications. Several components of a 3D printer need to be calibrated. These include the stepper motors, the extruder, and the 3D printer filament type.

There are many benefits to calibrating your printer, including the following:

To calibrate your 3D printer, you will need to calibrate the X, Y, and Z motors, the extruder, and the filament. Each of these processes is described below: We will begin by calibrating the X, Y, and Z axis.

The goal of calibrating the X, Y, and Z is to ensure that the print head moves precisely according to the firmware's specified steps. You can use a ruler, dial gauge, or calipers. Here, we are going to use a dial gauge.

Important Tip: Most users have used a test cube to calibrate the X, Y, and Z axes. This works too, but for accurate results you should use a dial gauge.

The current steps configuration is essential as you will use them later in calculating E-steps. E-steps are the steps the motors need to go to extrude one millimeter of filament. Each 3D printer comes from the factory calibrated. The image below shows a default E-step setting of 93. Though these settings are accurate, there can be discrepancies during the assembly of the 3D printer, and calibration ensures it is set correctly.

To retrieve the current steps setting, you can go to the Configuration settings of your 3D printer, then choose Steps per mm, and you will be able to see your current settings.

The settings for accessing the steps might vary depending on the type of your 3D printer.

We need to mount the dial gauge to the print head to take measurements. You can get 3D-printable dial gauge holders for your specific 3D printer, such as the one from 1bipig on Thingiverse. Once your dial gauge is mounted on the holder, home your 3D printer to allow the firmware to move the machine manually; next, mount the dial gauge using the holder to the print head and ensure that it touches the bed.

You can use the LCD screen and controls (depending on your 3D printer) to move the axis 10mm back and forth. The goal is to ensure that the dial gauge measures as close to 10mm as possible. You can do this with the X, Y, and Z axes.

Once you have obtained the measurements, you can tighten the screws and the belt so they don't move. Doing this helps avoid distorting the measurement already generated.

We will need to obtain the E-step value to adjust the firmware steps setting. You can get this by dividing the amount requested (in our case, it was 10mm) by the actual amount and multiplying by the value of the current step obtained using a dial gauge. Once you obtain the value, you can set it in your firmware.

Heat your extruder and send a command to extrude 100mm of filament. Once that's done, measure how much filament was extruded. If it's less than 100mm, then you need to increase your E-steps. If it's more than 100mm, then you need to decrease your E-steps. Keep adjusting until you get it right.

The next thing you need to do is calibrate your Z-axis offset. Setting this is crucial as it will determine the height of your layer. You can calibrate the Z-axis offset on your 3D printer in several ways. The first is to use a piece of paper or a thickness gauge.

Place the paper or gauge on the build plate and slowly lower the extruder until it barely touches the paper. Then, measure the distance from the top of the paper to the tip of the extruder. This measurement is your Z-axis offset. For more details, check out our detailed guide on calibrating your 3D printer extruder.

If you see that your prints are not coming out as expected, or if the filament is not being appropriately extruded, it is likely that your printer's nozzle is clogged. You can begin by removing and disassembling the hot end to clean the nozzle. Once the hot end is removed, you can use a needle or sharp object to clear debris from the nozzle.

Once the nozzle is clear, you must calibrate the filament diameter. To do this, you will need to measure the diameter of the filament at several points along its length. The easiest way to do this is with a caliper, as shown in the image above.

Once you have measured the diameter of the filament, you will need to adjust the flow rate accordingly. It is also essential to ensure that the filament is correctly aligned with the hot end. If the filament is not properly aligned, it can cause problems with the extrusion process.

To align the filament, you will need to loosen the set screw on the top of the hot end and then adjust the filament's position until it is centered in the nozzle. Once the filament is adequately aligned, you can tighten the set screw and resume printing.

If you have done the above but are experiencing issues like stringing, it can mean filament mistakes have been made, or your printer's settings are likely incorrect. If the extrusion rate is too high, it can cause stringing. You can adjust it in your printer's software.

Another setting that can cause stringing is the retraction distance. If your retraction distance is too high, it can cause the filament to be pulled out of the nozzle during travel moves. You can also increase the temperature of your hot end, as stringing can also be caused by a lack of heat, which can cause the filament to cool and solidify before it is extruded from the nozzle.

When you calibrate your 3D printer, you can help ensure that it works correctly and that any prints come out as intended. Even though the calibration process involves a lot of trial and error to get it just right, it’s a necessary process that any 3D printer user needs to learn to achieve great results.

Sammy has been writing content about 3D modeling, 3D printing, and general technology for the past 5 years. His writings have appeared in a number of publications, including All3dp, pick3dprinter, 3dsourced, 3dprintingtoday, ITchronicles, and many others. Sammy is also an SEO Expert with more than 4 years of professional experience. He holds a Bachelors's degree in Information Technology. When he is not writing, Sammy enjoys 3D printing with his Anet A8 3D printer.